Wednesday, April 02, 2008

Painted Ladies





The neighborhood where I lived throughout college was called Charles Village, and some may even note that I have a sweet Charles Village neighborhoodie that KB got me for my birthday in 2005.

These two pictures are of the 3000 block of Abell Avenue in CV, home to some of the best painted ladies in Baltimore. I took these photos as samples for a book proposal I wrote two weeks ago for a tourguide book to Baltimore. Didn't get the job, but I like these photos.

Look for a bigger post tomorrow about West Baltimore's Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd, and some writing I've been doing about it.

King's Legacy, King's Boulevard






"Today we celebrate a win-win-win situation. It's a win for our country, and a win for Baltimore city, and a win for the people who are going to live and work here...I remember when I used to serve on the Poppleton Board back in 1979. Back then the biggest fear was that the University of Maryland would come across Martin Luther King. But then there came some visionaries. And some of them are sitting right behind me. There are visionaries on both sides of MLK."

- U.S. Congressman Elijah Cummings, March 31, 2008

"If you find yourself on 'Martin Luther King Boulevard', run!...I don't care where you live in America, if you're on Martin Luther King Boulevard, there's some violence going on."

- Chris Rock

Last Monday, the University of Maryland, Baltimore, had a big, swanky catered event, complete with cheesy jazz-pop band and pesto-mozzarella finger sandwiches, to celebrate two things: the opening of Building II, and the groundbreaking of Building III at their new west side BioPark.


[breaking ground: mayor sheila dixon, elijah cummings, gov. martin o'malley, sen. ben cardin, and UMB president david j. ramsay]

I've been writing about these developments for the Daily Record, and you can see some of those articles here. But what I wanted to talk about here, on the blog, is a more abstract idea about city planning, and specifically, about physical barriers between people of different race and class, their intent, their development, and their meaning.

Specifically, I'm talking about Martin Luther King Jr., Blvd, a 2-mile, six lane artery that snakes its way downtown from the Mt. Royal cultural district, near the Lyric Opera House and the Meyerhoff Symphony Hall, all the way to the area near M&T Bank Stadium, where the Ravens play, and where MLK blends into I-395 South and lulls you into a sense of false security and purposefulness as you drive towards the cesspool that is Washington, D.C.

To the east of this road lie a number of neighborhoods: Mt. Vernon, Westside, Downtown, Ridgely's Delight. To the west lies the vast tract of rowhouses and mostly-African-American neighborhoods known as West Baltimore (too many individual neighborhoods to name). It's the setting for HBO's The Wire. It's the neighborhood H.L. Mencken grew up in. It's where Baltimore's black cultural district once thrived along Pennsylvania Avenue.

The significance of the University of Maryland's hopping across MLK Blvd is that ten, twenty, thirty, even forty years ago (basically, any time since Brown v. Board of Education and white flight), such a thing would never have happened. West Baltimore is black, poor, abandoned, run-down, ghettoized, and full of crime and drugs (ever watch the Wire, anyone?). And MLK Blvd, according to Marxist historian and former Johns Hopkins professor David Harvey, "creates an easily patrolled line of defense between the mass of downtown buildings and low-income and largely African-American communities of West Baltimore.")


[west baltimore rowhouses]

One important piece of Baltimore history that allowed for the UMB BioPark project to go forward was the demolition of the Murphy Homes, a notoriously dangerous high-rise housing project near MLK Jr. Blvd and Franklin Street, which around there becomes MD-40 west, a road that goes through many of West Baltimore's trouble spots (Edmonson Village, Woodlawn) and continues out past the beltway on the Frederick.

Throughout the 1990s, the Murphy Homes were a total hotbed of criminal activity. I read a really interesting story about 'Itchy Man' in the Baltimore Sun, an alleged murderer and drug dealer who once scaled an outer wall of the 14-story project while running from the cops, then hid in a garbage chute for hours while more that 50 cops and FBI agents searched for him, unsuccessfully. But then again, that article was written by Jim Haner, who my boss here at TDR says was the basis for F. Scott Templeton, the fabulist reporter from season 5 of the Wire, which means that it can't entirely be trusted.

Another Sun article, from the day before the Murphy Homes were demolished in 1999, calls Baltimore's public housing "an idea for sheltering the poor born of utopian theories and segregation," citing Le Corbusier's idea of "the flattening of crime-ridden 'cities of horror' and replacing them with 'radiant cities' of high-rises with wide plazas and expressways between them."

MLK Jr. Blvd, and Route 40, for that matter, could definitely be thought of as one of those expressways.

David Harvey, in a discussion about MLK Jr. Blvd and its role as a "
strong physical barrier between the University of Maryland medical campus and the tenements," dryly observed, "In a society that is officially against racial discrimination and for democracy, we're increasingly building isolated communities that are often racially discriminatory."

There are over 500 streets named after Martin Luther King Jr. in American cities, mostly in the South, and many of them go through predominantly black neighborhoods. Interesting factoid: Wal-Mart opposed the re-naming of MLK Jr. Blvd in Fayetteville, Arkansas. Another reason to hate Wal-Mart. If only their DVD players weren't so damn cheap...


[the site of BioPark building III, from a nearby parking garage]

What's going to happen, no doubt -- and I say this as a member of the real estate press corps, and it's based on a long period of monitoring housing prices in West Baltimore -- is that several neighborhoods around the UMB development will be gentrified. They include Hollins Market, Union Square, Poppleton, and Pigtown. It's already happening, and seems pretty inevitable, although in each of those neighborhoods there are barriers (bars of ill repute, open-air drug markets, bad schools) that need to be overcome first. The fate of the people who live their now is pretty up in the air. My personal, cynical view, is that it won't be the mixed-income paradise, white and black holding hands and planting community gardens in the medians, that the city wants. But it will likely be better, less violent, and cleaner.

But another issue to think about is the return of HOPE-VI housing, which I blogged about here. In the late 90s, Baltimore knocked down 4 large public housing projects using HUD money, with plans to rebuild them as the type of low-rise, mixed-income, old-fashioned housing personified by Heritage Crossing, the development that replaced Murphy Homes. If a democrat wins the presidency in November, it's likely that the HOPE-VI program will be revitalized, and this sort of thing will be happening more and more.

And so, a week after the 40th anniversary of Martin Luther King, Jr.'s assassination -- What does it mean that the legacy of that great man's name is tied inextricably to an urban design technique that may, at one point, have been based on good intentions, but now is associated with segregation, ghettos, and poverty?

I don't really have the answer, but it's something I been pondering, y'all.

Tuesday, April 01, 2008

Cherryblossom Gals and Fluttering Kites


[jeffersonian.]


This past weekend was the optimal weekend to see the cherry blossoms that line the tidal basin in Washington, D.C.

It was, like, prime time to see them.

So lets call it Optimus Prime Weekend.



[blossomin']

It also happened that it was the 42nd annual Smithsonian Kite Festival and there were mad South Asians letting out string, staring at the sky, and generally having a South Asian good time.



[the answer is in the sky]

There were thousands of people swarming the Mall, but I must admit, the kites were not as spectacular as I expected. It did kind of remind me, though, of when we went to Jaipur, the pink city in Rajastan, where all the kids were flying kites from rooftops downtown. Except that wasn't a festival. That was all the time.




[kite sugarhigh]


A few of the kites were good, though.



[mask-kite]




[patriot kites]


And this old codger, who was engrossed, completely, in the Washington Post, while all the kiteness went on behind him.



[grimble grumble gramble]


From the kite thing, we headed over to the flowers, which were way too crowded, but definitely prettier than I remember last year.



[KB smirking]


There were even some very very glamorous people, with fancy cell phones and curled lips...



[ehhh....]


These young ladies, who were dressed like yellow bunnies, I guess? I don't know what they were up to. They passed by while KB and I were having some oat bread and havarti on a blanket by the water. Every dog that passed by wanted to try some of our bread.



[squeak, squeak, squeak...]


And a radiant Amy V-T



[blossom-eyed]


And the crew...



[in front of the ww2 memorial]

Monday, March 31, 2008

Death Set @ Lo-Fi Social Club


[stolenphoto]

Last Thursday night went with Joan, Jon (+1), Bagel, Matt, and L-Hill to the Lo-Fi Social Club, on Charles Street (near North) in Baltimore to see the Death Set play their last hometown show before they go on tour. Awesome, awesome show.

The band is three people (at least live), two of whom are from Syndey, Australia, who relocated some years back to NYC, and now Baltimore, where their style of hyperactive, sugar-rush punk have become a good example of how punk and dance music are becoming bosom buddies once again here in Charm City. The set began with a slow chanting, over a hip-hop beat, of the chorus from "Intermission," but a few moments in, they burst into "Impossible," one of their juvenile-sounding chant-rock songs, then the more hardcore and screamy, "Day in the Wife," and then a great version of "Intermission." They ended with two hit-and-run covers of Operation Ivy's "Bombshell" and Nirvana's "Territorial Pissings". The whole crowd was moving in one of those big sweaty masses of hipsterdom that you see at Floristree shows, or anywhere Dan Deacon or Double Dagger is playing. I was in that mass for a while. No one else had the guts to join me.

The highlight of the show, undoubtably, was the singalong version of "Negative Thinking," (Bagel and I are wild for this song. Wild for it!) and I'll leave you with the contrite, brilliant lyrics here. Check out the Death Set's forthcoming full-length, Worldwide, when it drops later this month....

If I felt cynicism,
I'd wrap it in a blanket of discontentment,
Fuck that!
I'd feel better knowing that I'd decided not to
When you were looking round
You veered to the right
Did you notice that?
And I feel better knowing
That I decided not to
In hindsight, I don't want
To be like the people I've liked.
Whoooo-oh-oh-ooooh....


MP3s of the whole show are here.