Thursday, December 01, 2005

El mundo unamuniano



This post will mostly be about Miguel de Unamuno y Jugo, who was made rector or the Universidad de Salamanca three times in his life (the last time "rector for life"). He was a true man of letters, a philosopher, a novelist, and a lecturer in Greek at the University. He lived in Paris with Pascal, London with Dickens, and Copenhagen with Kierkegaard (he learned Danish, just to read Kierkegaard in the original language...). He got his Ph. D. at age 21 in Letters from the University of Madrid, writing his dissertation of the problems in the origins of the Basque race (he was a Basque, originally from Bilbao).

I recently visited his house, and what I'm gonna do is post some quotes and data along with the photos I took.

This is the old inscription on the wall right outside his house, "Universitas Studii Salamantini"...



And La fachada universitaria (the façade of the old university), con la escondida rana, a little sculpture of a frog that is carved on the wall. The rumor is that if you don't find the frog when you look for it, you will fail your first year of exams...



Inside the Unamuno house, with the portrait of him...



In 1923, Unamuno was exiled to Fuerteventura, in the Canary Islands, by the dictator Miguel Primo de Rivera for his critical comments of the general. He was almost immediately recued by one H. Dumay, editor of the Parisian literary magazine Le Quotidien, in his private yacht, who bore him back to Paris.

Before leaving Salamanca, on February 24, 1924, Unamuno's students mobbed the train station platform. Unamuno said to them, "Volveré no con mi libertad, que nada vale, sino con la vuestra." ("I will return, not with my liberty, which is worth nothing, but with yours.")



This is Unamuno's typewriter, which was given to him as a gift, and which he never used. He wrote all of his novels, essays, and plays, including San Manuel Bueno, Mártir, Niebla, Del Sentimiento Trágico de la Vida, and Vida de Quijote y Sancho, in longhand...



Unamuno said,

"Como yo, fundalmentalmente no soy más que palabra, el no hablar es morir y francamente, a morir no estoy dispuesto...." (11-18-1917).

"Because I, fundamentally, am no more than words, to not speak would be to die, and frankly, I'm not disposed to dying...."

This is his library, which had something like 6,000 volumes in about 12 different languages. Some choice titles were The Value and Destiny of the Individual by Bernard Bosarquet, and The Oxford Movement by Dean Church.



And Unamuno's desk, where he wrote all the novels...



And here, the troubled genius, at that very desk...



And Unamuno on his bed, reading, my reflection artfully included...



And the statue of Unamuno, in the plaza de Monterrey in Salamanca, across from the bar-café "Niebla".



In 1936, Unamuno gave a passionate anti-Franco speech in the Paraninfo, a lecture hall at the University. Immediately after, he was escorted out by a platoon of Franco's soldiers. He was placed under house-arrest, and died about 6 weeks later.

Basically, the point is, sometimes people are so incredibly awesome that the Spaniads make words out of people's names, such that Unamuno, for example, has had the word "unamuniano," or, "unamunian", made from his name. And that's pretty much my new life goal. "Whelaniano."

Wednesday, November 23, 2005

Bordeaux



Kat's birthday was November 17th, so we met at the train station the next morning at San Sebastian and hopped on a train up the southwestern French coast to Bordeaux, land of wine and cheese and socialism. My dad sent a belated email recommended that we visit Montaigne's 16th century chateau outside of the city, but I've never read anything by Montaigne, and we got the email late, so we didn't go. We also were going to tour a vineyard in St. Emilian, but Kat lost her glasses at the Musée de Beaux Artes, and we missed the last train there in finding them.

What I'm trying to say is, we didn't do much during our time in Bordeaux. In fact, almost all we did was eat and drink wine, and that is what this post will be about.

We did see some cool sites though, and I'll start with them. This is the waterfront.



This is Kat in a very picturesque grove of sycamores...



This is the beautiful Jardin Public. Bordeaux is a rather quiet place, and it seems that people there mostly just take walks. As a result, the parks are very beautiful...





Thebotanical gardens...



The birthday dinner at the Terrace St. Pierre...



Lots of greyish, vacant squares, full of pigeons and little future frenchmen playing football...



A small, but competitive cathedral...



A huge arch. Probably erected in memory of some triumph. Perhaps the construction of the Benetton outlet right in front of it...



Kat, me, arch, fruitstand...



The courtyard at the fine arts museum...



And two art shots of Kat. One in a café, looking vague, and another while on a stroll, contemplating her existence...





And now to the food. This part of the post is a response to the fact that I very much miss being home right now, especially this time of year. I haven't eaten anything with sauce, except while in France, for about 3 months. So while you are all eating better than I'll be tomorrow night, remember this: I ate better than you did last weekend.


Some deliciously rich pastries...



The salade before a meal at the Café Agneau...



The chicken skewer, grilled over open fire, at the Café Agneau...



The ambience at the Terrace St. Pierre, where we had a Cabagnet Bordeaux from 2001...



My canard a lá magritte (roast duck) with sweet potato purée, sautéed cucumbers, and pommes frites at the Terrace St. Pierre...



Kat modelling her birthday bracelet and the cheese plate...



A chocolate banana crêpe with rum flambée that I had the next morning. It's actually on fire in this picture, but you can't see it...



Kat's crêpe, much the same, only with chantilly...



Doisneau shot of me with a Bordeaux vintage...




risotto (bad pic) at the Terrace St. Pierre...



Chocolate filled croissants and café au lait...



Kat, looking the most French ever, with a baguette and a little hôrs d'ouvres made from feta, sundried tomatoes, and portabellos...



Me, eating the same thing...



Some coppery-tasting marennes, which we washed down with a nice vin blanc, just like in A Moveable Feast...



Kat eating fois gras on a cracker...


Fois gras and French tortilla, with spinach and red peppers, alongside a lillet rouge, the preferred apertif of the Acquitaine...






And again, my risotto...



delicious, non?

Happy Thanksgiving everyone.

Love,
Robbie

¡Debote Calderón!



One of my favorite songs (there are several) by the British rapper/garager/whatever Mike Skinner is called "Geezers Need Excitement," and it deals with the trials and tribulations of young British man ("geezer") when he's had too much to drink (gotten "lairy") at a nightclub ("the club"). Apparently, it's quite stressful because one has to deal with lots of subtle ultimatums, flirtations with one's bird, and general "cheshire cat" smiles from one's fellow lairy geezers. There is one line in particular, that I really like:

All rage sweeps up through your torso, you're moreso
ready to go over and show him whos man
Football fan style

And I've always wondered what, exactly 'football fan style' meant, and I've made it a mini-mission, along with seeing an image of the Virgin Mary, to figure it out while here in Spain.

As an FC Barcelona fan, I've had my share of football fan style moments, most notably at the Barça vs. Deportivo La Coruña game a few weeks back, but also this past weekend while watching Barça beat Real Madrid, which is a bit like watching the Red Sox beat the Yankees, only televised in 52 countries and widely considered the most important sporting event all year. The other funny thing is that Barça, the team championed by leftists, socialists, anarchists, and other misfits, beat Real, the team whose title was bestowed upon them during Franco's regime, the team called "The Whites," which was the same name given to Franco's nationalist army in the Spanish Civil War, and the team championed by supporters of the right-wing Partido Popular, one day before the 30th anniversary of Franco's death, in Madrid's home stadium. It was glorious. I went nuts, football fan style. Oh, and here's a sweet article about it that Ishai sent to me.

So, in my endless pursuit to find out what 'football fan style' really means, I had my eyes open (abnormally) one morning a few weeks back while walking to class, and I happened to notice this sign affixed to a mailbox:



The offer was unbeatable: €30 for a round trip busride, plus the price of the ticket, to the "repesca" game of the Spanish national team vs. Slovakia. The "respesca" is sort of a playoff in the qualifying matches heading up to the World Cup, so basically Spain and Slovakia had the same number of points, so they had to have a tiebraking match, or two matches. We went and saw the game that was played in Madrid (there was another in Slovakia, a few weeks later) at the Estadio Vicente Calderón, which is the home stadium for Athletico Madrid, the worst team in Madrid, skippered by Fernando Torres, a prettyboy young blonde who is actually a star of the national selection.



It was an extraordinarily wet night, but that didn't stop us from buying Spanish gear, flags and scarfs, and drinking for an hour outside while the people danced around and yelled "Olés!". Here's Brian representing...



All 5 of us representing...



Dave and Chris with litros...



And for the first half, the view from our seats...



Me, attempting "football fan style"... I'm probably yelling "¡Debote Calderón!" in this picture, which means, roughly, "Rock the Calderón!"



Some guys with loud horns, making an admirable stab at "football fan style", even in the rain...



The Slovakia cheering section, after they scored their only goal (Spain won, 5-1, and if they had won 4-1, I would have won the bet-on-the-score lottery that I entered with all the old dudes on the bus on the way to the game, and would have been reimbursed for the price of the entire trip... Instead, on the busride back, I was soaking wet, watching the Jean Claude Van Damme movie 'Replicant' for the second time, and wondering why Spain had to score that one lousy final goal). The fire that the Slovakians set in the stands was DEFINITELY "football fan style".



And then, in a football fan style move, we crawled through a hole in the wall of the Estadio Vicente Calderón to some vacant 5th row seats, where we sat for the second half...



And this sign, which reads, "One flag, one nation" and is a clear anti-Catalan reference to the Estatut of the Spanish constitution, proposed by the autonomous government of Catalonia, which challenges the wording of the constitution to re-designate Catalonia as a "nation" rather than a "nationality". I don't really support the Estatut but I do support FC Barcelona, so I took personal offense to this banner.



And when all was said and done, everyone was very wet...



That is all.